September 05, 2014

Sewing the Wedding Suit: Vest, Trousers & Tie

For the past year or so I have enjoyed making garments for my man, so when it came to our wedding, I couldn't resist making my 'husband to be's' suit! I nearly accomplished my goal of sewing the entire suit, but ended up one article short. I made the trousers, vest and tie... but ran out of time with the shirt. Overall I am super happy with the fit and tailoring of the trousers and vest.
Here I will share this "creating a suit" process with you all AND encourage you to sew for your man!

Step 1 : Choosing your patterns and if required, an accompanying book
Firstly I scoured the internet for patterns. I had made the Jochen Burdastyle trouser previously (my orange version posted here), though I knew that I wanted to alter it for a slimmer fit, so I invested in the tailoring Classic Tailoring Techniques: A Construction Guide to Menswear book. The reviews seem to indicate that this is the best tailoring book out there. I was not THAT impressed, but in saying that I did not make a jacket, so perhaps the jacket section is strong? 

For the vest I chose the Burdastyle Jason pattern as I like the pockets and neckline of the vest. 

Step 2 : Create the Muslin version and make alterations
I created a muslin for both the vest and trouser and made the following alterations and transferred it to the pattern pieces. 

* Trouser alterations - 1.5 inches off through the centre trouser with some small alterations to the back seam
*Vest alterations -I took in about an inch on the side seams and altered the shape of the back to follow the contour of his back.

Step 4 : Choosing fabric
We were planning to purchase sustainable fabrics, BUT we ran out of time so we made our way to the markets to find this charcoal, pin striped wool blend. We also chose to use a brown satin for the back section. 

Step 5 : Cutting and Sewing the Vest
The instructions for the vest were pretty easy to follow. I had to look up the welted pocket on youtube to make sure that I inserted it correctly. The buckle for the vest was difficult to identify in the sewing store, so I needed to ask the shop owner. All in all it was pretty easy to assemble. 

Step 6: Cutting and Sewing the Trousers
The trousers were also pretty simple to sew. The most challenging parts were the welted pockets and fly, but I encountered  no real dramas.

Step 7: Constructing the Tie and adding a personal touch
I used a silk bamboo in combination with the fabric from my own dress to create the tie:)

There we have it! I created (nearly) everything just in the nick of time. I was super happy with the fit and he looked superb on the day:)
.......AND at the moment I am continuing to sew for him with some Thread Theory patterns. Jedediah pants and Comox Trunks are on the to-do list!

Next weeks Post: The making of my wedding dress!

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